Culinary lessons from Rio…

It may not be common knowledge, but the restaurant scene in Rio is exceptional, from unpresuming bars with simple fare to absolutely gorgeous, upscale eateries with world class views. In the few days I’ve been here, I’ve made a few discoveries I find noteworthy.

First is Aprazível. This is one of the most beautiful restaurants I’ve ever seen. It’s in Santa Teresa, which means negotiating narrow streets that seem to go straight up. I would recommend taking a taxi or riding a mountain goat. We went with Renato and Izabella. The views on the drive up and from the restaurant are breathtaking. The food is UNBELIEVABLE. We had heart of palm as an appetizer served with the palm shaft split in half. Really something special. By the way, the owners are justifiably proud of this place so the tab will easily run over R$100 per person. It’s worth it!

Take a look at the site if you get a minute. Click on the leftmost circular icon top center of the page (then click the links on the left to see the various rooms and terraces). The pictures simply don’t do it justice but at least give you and idea of the place. I sent them e-mail asking them if they’d like me to better capture its glory. I made it clear I accept payment in food and drink. They have no way of knowing what a liability this could be.

A quick cultural note: on the way home we went through a police roadblock where they were making sure folks weren’t violating Brazil’s new zero tolerance drinking and driving law. That’s right: you can’t drink ANYTHING and drive in Brazil. Lucky for us (or Renato at least), they had pulled so many people over we slid through.

Another find on the simple side of the spectrum: pasteís at  Belmonte (Boteco Belmonte). We go to the one near our apartment at the Praça General Osório (Ipanema). I think the original is in Flamengo. Pasteís (singular pastel) are fried pastries filled with a variety of ingredients, usually some type of meat. They go down extremely well with freezing cold draft beer, e.g., Brahma. Belmonte has pasteís that are stuffed with shrimp that may be my new favorite food. At a couple of Euros a pop, they are a steal.

Finally, there is a fair at the Praça General Osório on Sundays called Feira Hippie. There are two places there that serve a delicacy from Brazil’s Northwest called acarajé. I had one yesterday smothered in some reasonably strong pepper sauce. The bread for this sandwich-like concoction is made from beans. Go figure. Anyway, if you find yourself in Rio, consider giving it a shot.